Step-by-Step

Daaaaaay by daaaaay

(Just kidding.)

We went up to the Gunks again on Saturday (shout out to the home crag). I only sent three problems (no new, all re-sends):

– Blasted Rock V1
– Unnamed Boulder Problem V1
– Black Boulder Crack V0

But I got further on three of my projects:

Baby Hole V3 – I have successfully reached up to shove my fingers in the actual baby hole and hold on; now I have to figure out how to get my left hand up and over to the dang top (and then the terrifying top out, of course).

The Lorax V4 – I just started consistently being able to get the weird left hand and come out from the big holds underneath. I am now falling when I have to get my right hand up to the lip. It’s a little scary, though, because my right foot keeps getting stuck in the bottom if I fall, and since legs aren’t super long, my ankle gets caught. No breaks, no sprains, but it definitely made me nervous.

Boulder of the Gods – 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up before getting too scared and coming back down. Even though the climb isn’t technically difficult (V0-?), it’s a highball, which makes me terrified. Not only is it a highball, it’s a highball with less than ideal moves at the top and a tree to fall back into. But my goal is to send an easy highball and build more confidence in climbing higher.

I had a much better attitude going up this trip than on previous trips because I was thinking about things on a move by move basis, rather than a send-by-send basis. Bouldering is hard, and if I only focus on whether or not I complete a whole problem I get frustrated, because obviously it’s super hard to send whole problems. However, if I consider it on a move by move basis, it definitely was a day of progress. So I just need to concentrate on moves instead of sends, and I’ll be a happier climber.

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